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Tuesday, February 2nd 2010

4:07 AM

The Many Different Colors Of German Shepherds


Most pet people when they think of the German Shepherd dog, they think of the black and tan or even the black and silver coat. They are not familiar with the many different colors of this breed. The colors of the German Shepherd are: black and tan/black and crèam, black and silver, sable/gray, bi-color, black, white, blanket, blue, and liver. According to the German Shepherd Dog Club of America the coat color may vary although strong rich colors are preferred. Pale, washed-out colors and blues or livers are serious faults. A white dog must be disqualified. I wonder why blues and livers are only serious faults but yet the white dog would be disqualified!?

When you think of a black and tan/crèam/silver, or red this would usually describe a dog that has a black saddle and the majority of the rest of his coat color is tan, crèam, silver, or red. This would be the most common color of this breed. Most of the time this is the type of dog that you would see in the movies or television or even the advertising of this breed. I would venture to say that more dogs of this color than any other color of this breed does the most winning in the conformation shows. In fact some judges have a hard time putting up some dogs of other colors like the black dog, the bi-color or even the sable dog. For some of them, this is not a color that they prefer. That’s why it’s very important to find out what a certain judge may like before you enter the ring. Of course the best structured dog with the most desirable temperament should be the dog that wins. However, it is a known fact that some judges just do not favor other coat colors besides the black and tan variation.

The sable/gray coat looks very similar to the coat you would expect to see on the wolf. Even with a sable, you can see variances in the color of the pigment. Sometimes you will hear people say they own a red sable. Sometimes you will hear them say that they own a gray. The hairs on a sable dog refer to the banding of color on the dog’s individual hairs. The dog’s hair is tipped with varying amounts of black on the ends with the rest being different shades of red, gray, etc. So you can find black sables, tan sables silver sables or red sables. This is how much the coat of a sable can vary.

The blanket type of coat is where the saddle part of the dog extends approximately to the elbow of the dog. This gives the dog more of a blanket look on his back than a saddle look. Sometimes people confuse the blanket backed dog with a bi-color type dog.

The bi-color is when the saddle part of the dog covers most of the body leaving markings on the feet and sometimes on the face like having eyebrows.

The totally black dog is exactly what it sounds like. There are no tan markings on this dog. However, sometimes this dog may appear to have a reddish undercoat. Most of the time that is due to the dog being out in the sun too long. Also I have seen a totally black dog have a white splash on their chest. The solid black is a recessive gene meaning that both parents must carry this color gene.

A dog that is blue in color can vary from very light almost looking like a silver to a very dark blue almost looking like a black, but never truly a dark black…..almost dusty looking. Most of these dogs will have a light eye. The blue gene is a recessive gene that both parents must carry in order for a puppy to be born blue.

A liver dog will look usually like a black and tan dog, but instead of the black saddle, he will carry a brownish looking saddle. The liver colored dog is also a recessive gene. Both the blue and liver dog dilutes the black gene. The liver dog will have a brown colored nose almost looking like he was digging in the dirt all day.

The white German Shepherd is not an albino as some people may think. Here again, the white gene is a recessive gene.

Some people will argue and say that no matter what color a German Shepherd is, he is still a German Shepherd. They will say that color shouldn’t matter as long as the dog is healthy. And yes, they would be right that no matter what color he is, he still has the heart of a German Shepherd and many people have different colors of this breed and love them no matter what. But as with any breed of dog, there must be a standard to breed to. There must be an ideal for which a breeder tries to reproduce in his litters. If there were not standards, then there would be no German Shepherd “look” and than just any old thing would do.

I have owned black and tans, sables, bi-colors and blankets. I love a gorgeous plush sable bitch. This combination can be very striking to look at. “Chieftain’s Rajah” was a blanket dog. One would look at him and see his black face and predominately black body and think that he was a bi-color. He was not. He had the tan markings that went up on his legs unlike the bi-color dog that I now own.

Knowing about the genetics of color is a very long and detailed study…..too long for me to write about here. I would suggest anyone who is interested about coat color; check out the many articles about this subject on the internet. Also if you want to see what some of these colors look like, there are many fascinating pictures for you to look at on these websites.

Once again there are many different color coats that a German Shepherd Dog may have. One can argue that each of them is pretty in their own way. Each of them can bring joy to their owners. However, most people will associate the black and tan to be the “typical” look of the German Shepherd Dog.

href="http://technorati.com/blogs/Lane%27s+Large+German+Shepherd" rel="tag directory">Lane's Large German Shepherd.








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Friday, January 1st 2010

12:06 AM

You Need To Be "Top Dog"

Dogs descended from wolves, and deep within the psyche of your dog lies instincts they have retained from their wild ancestors. In order to live with and communicate with your dog you need to understand why you must maintain Alpha position in the "pack."

Your dog depends on you for its survival. It has learned that it must cooperate with you through thousands of years of evolution and adaptation in human society. The first domestication by man was the wolf. About twelve thousand years ago we discovered that having a wolf as a "pet" was a great asset. They could hunt alongside us and they could guard us as we slept.

As the years went by, the wolf began to mutate into different breeds. Scientists are unsure exactly how the first breeds developed. There are several different theories that include natural mutations, climate, and environment. The breeds became more numerous and more specialized. That is how we ended up with groups such as herding, hunting, shepherding, guarding, and of course, companion and lap dogs.

Of all the animals that we have domesticated, only the dog has willingly allowed itself to accept the authority of man without constraint. But as I said, it still retains the instinct to test its position. Yes, even sweet little Lady, the Maltese lying at your feet, has the genes and instincts of the wolf.

Wolves live by rules and have a social structure. The entire pack cooperates under a single leader. Lines are clearly defined. The leader of the pack eats first, and then the rest of the pack can eat. When your dog growls at you when he is eating, he is saying "I am the leader, and you must wait."

If your dog has a growling problem, here are some "rules to live by" that may be of help to you.

1. Never tolerate growling. This is a threat and it means your dog sees you as a subordinate meant to be dominated by him. Tell him No! Let him know it is not acceptable to EVER growl at you or your children. Make it clear that your children are the offspring of his Alpha leader (you) and that they are to be treated as Alpha "pups."

 

2. Do not let your dog walk through the door first. If your dog always goes ahead of you, you need to get your leash and open the door. When he rushes ahead you pull him back and tell him "No. Wait. " You walk in and then give him permission to come in. This will be easier and faster if you have someone help you.

 

3. Do not let your dog sleep in the same bed as you. This is a definite Alpha position. If you just can't be without your dog in the bed, at the very least you need to make sure he sleeps at the foot of the bed. A doggie bed on the floor beside you is your best bet for maintaining Alpha position. (this rule is for aggressive dogs or dogs showing signs they are forgetting their place... A pet that is well behaved and obedient can sleep next to you or your child).

 

4. Socialize, socialize, socialize. I cannot stress enough the importance of introducing your dog to different places and people. Find something to do with your dog. Join and agility or obedience class. Take your dog to the park. If you have a laid back dog or puppy share your time with the local nursing home. Volunteer with disability groups so children and adults with special needs can enjoy the non-judgmental love a dog or puppy can provide.

 

5. Do not let your dog ride in your lap in the car. Make him sit in his own seat or on the floor. It is unsafe for you and your dog. Buy him his own seat belt or safety booster or use a kennel. Some states will give you a ticket for being a distracted driver.

 

6. Do not baby your dog too much. He needs to learn to be a dog. Do not over-protect him. He needs to explore and learn to be independent. You do not want to raise a flighty, paranoid dog. When he acts afraid of something that he should not be afraid of, do not pick him up and ooh and ahh over him. Simply tell him it is okay, and show him the object, person, etc. Your confidence will make him a confident and dependable dog. If you feed his imaginary fears, he will become a snappy and untrustworthy dog. He may develop fear aggression. An example of fear aggression could be a dog that sits in its owner's lap and growls at people or other animals. If you pet him, and tell him "It's okay." You are really telling him this is the type of behavior you expect of him, and he will continue to do it because there is a reward attached to it. Tell him no and put him down off your lap. While some owners think it is sweet that their little lap dog is "protecting them," it is not. When a child reaches to pet the dog or hug Grandma it could bite them if it is allowed to get away with this antisocial behavior. This is a dog that has taken on Alpha position and you are a subordinate. I have seen so many children chastised when they get bitten, when it's the owner that is responsible. You will often hear people say "Now, you know Granny's dog doesn't like you to go near her. She is jealous, and protective. We have told you over and over not to do that." What a shame. And it could all be avoided if we would just take the time to learn canine behavior. As much as we would like to believe that they think like us, they do not.

If you have a problem with your dog growling at you or another family member, you may want to try having the person your dog growls at the most be the only one to feed him. You want to make him sit to reinforce your position as the leader. He is learning that he depends on you and he must obey in order to eat. And if he growls after you set down the food, tell him no and take the food away. Tell him to sit again. This is how you will reinforce the "no growling rule.''

You must never tolerate growling because this will usually lead to biting. Not always, but it usually does. So you need to nip it in the bud as soon as possible. I want to make it clear we are not talking about puppy play growling. Only growling that is geared towards aggression growling. Puppies need to be able to be puppies.

Do not play tug of war with a puppy. Play fetch and tell them to release the ball. Never be overly harsh with your dog. Use common sense.

When a dog is constantly leaning on you, putting his paw on you, or touching you in some way, this is not your dog loving you, it is your dog displaying dominate behaviors. In the dog world, space is respect. A dog who is constantly nudging you and leaning on you, is not only disrespecting you, they are being the alpha dog. You are the one who must start and end touching and affection. Affection should only be given when the dog is being calm and submissive. Never when the dog is excited, anxious, scared, nervous etc... or you will be reinforcing that state in the dog.

One last thing... spend time with your dog. Train him. Be calm, assertive and provide rules and boundaries your dog must follow. When you provide all of those things, play with him and love him up. Just as a child looks to his parents for guidance and boundaries, so does your dog. Sometimes we have to use tough love, but in the long run, you and your dog will be happier if you maintain the Alpha role.

 

  I strongly suggest Cesar Millan DVD's and or Cesar Millan Books to every dog owner, from Chihuahua to Pit Bull. An excellent guide to communicating with, understanding,  and controlling your dog.

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Wednesday, December 9th 2009

9:09 AM

8 Ways to Keep Your Pets Safe this Holiday Season

While you are decorating the tree or putting the Menorah in the window, don’t forget to make your home safe for your pets this holiday season.

Pets, just like children, can inadvertently be put in harm’s way by holiday decorations or traditions gone awry.

Here are 8 tips for keeping your pets safe:

Keep holiday plants out-of-reach for the family pet. Holly and mistletoe are poisonous when eaten, and the poinsettia's sap and leaves can cause severe stomach upset.

1. Tree preservatives, sugar, or aspirin placed in the holiday tree's water can cause intestinal upset and should be kept out of pets' reach.

2. Make sure your tree is secure. If you have a tree-climbing cat or a large dog with a constantly wagging tail, anchor the top of the tree to the wall with a strong cord or rope.

3. Be sure to secure holiday light cords and keep them out of the way. Pets can easily get tangled up in them.

4. Make sure you anchor candles securely away from curious pets.

5. Watch out for open doors. With everyone coming and going, it’s easy for your pet to slip away.

6. Make sure your pet has a collar and tag on.

7. Well-meaning relatives may be pre-disposed to slip your dog a bone or two under the table. Discourage them from doing so, because a chicken or other bone can be a choking hazard.

8. When putting away garbage, make sure the mountain of papers and trash are out-of-reach of your pet. Dogs are highly motivated to get into garbage.

From me and mine to you and yours Happy Holidays!
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Monday, November 30th 2009

11:23 PM

The German Shepherds Dog

German Shepherds, also known as Alsatian, are medium-large dogs. Males generally range between 24 and 26 inches tall at the shoulder and weigh 70-90 pounds. Females generally range 22-24 inches and 60-80 pounds. Some shepherds
may be a bit smaller, my dogs, may be as large as 30 inches and weigh as much as 140 pounds.

The colors of German Shepherds are black and tan (with the tan portion ranging from a light cream to a deep red-depending upon the individual dog); solid
black; white; bi-color (a black dog with tan legs); black and silver; blue (which looks like a very muted, grayish black and tan); sable. In a sable,
just the tip of each hair is colored. Their almond-shaped eyes are medium to dark brown, and they have a black nose.

Double-coated shepherds have a soft wooly undercoat and an outer coat of longer, harsher guard hairs. Shepherds can be coated normally or can be long coated or open coated. Long coats have about the same coat as a Belgian Tervuren. Open coats have no undercoat and usually have softer guard hairs. Even with the double coated German Shepherds, it is recommended that they reside indoors as a family member.

Shepherds should be brushed or raked daily to reduce shedding--which can be substantial. Although they shed year round, shepherds shed most heavily twice a year when blowing their coat (lose and replace the undercoat). To prevent
dry skin and itchiness, shepherds should be bathed no more than every 4-6 weeks.

Although one or both ears on some adult shepherds don't stand, their large ears usually stand naturally-not cropped. Their ears hang down when they are born and begin to go up at approximately 2-4 months. They may flop back down when heavy-duty teething begins around 4-6 months of age. The tail should hang down to the ground when they dog is at rest and should be carried in a
slight upward curve when the dog is in motion. Although not common, some shepherds have a ring tail (carried in a ring).

German Shepherds are very intelligent, responsive dogs. Originally bred to make most of their own decisions as herding dogs, German Shepherds have the ability to think for themselves and, therefore, will assume the leadership role if not trained in obedience and given firm rules that are not to be
broken. They take to obedience training quite well and excel as guide dogs, assistance dogs for the physically challenged, search and rescue dogs, police patrol dogs, narcotics dogs, agility dogs, etc.

Because they are territorial and protective, German Shepherds are natural guard dogs. They instinctively protect their home and family from danger. Because they bark when they hear anyone or anything, they need to be supervised in densely populated areas to avoid disturbing neighbors. Games of retrieval are a good way to distract them and give them exercise when in a fenced yard. When adult shepherds are adopted, they should be kept under close supervision for about a month as they may try, out of loyalty, to escape in search of former owners before bonding to you.

German Shepherds are energetic dogs and need routine exercise. A brisk half hour walk about twice a day is needed unless they are given a lot of
interactive playtime by their owners on a daily basis. If given sufficient exercise, shepherds adapt well to apartment living.

They  need to be socialized well and early in lots of different physical environments. They are naturally aloof with strangers, and some can be a bit
suspicious of strangers if not exposed to people outside the family at an early age. Some shepherds are overly aggressive, and some are very shy.
Although it can be genetic, this usually is due to poor or no training. A stable shepherd is a true best friend--extremely loyal, intelligent, affectionate, protective and responsive.

Properly socialized, shepherds are usually excellent with children, affectionate and loving with their families, accepting of family friends, aloof with strangers, and good with cats if raised with them. Some shepherds may show some dog aggression--especially males toward other males. Shepherds
need a lot of human companionship. They should never be chained outside or kenneled as they will suffer emotionally.

Possible health problems include hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, skin allergies, bloat, and spinal myelopathy (incurable paralysis of the hind legs). Hypothyroidism (low thyroid function) is common in German Shepherds although they usually do not exhibit the traditional symptoms of excess weight, laziness or sluggishness, or coat and skin problems. Thyroid problems may not occur until they are at least 4 years old. Annual blood tests are recommended to help prevent associated effects on their immune system.

German Shepherds usually live approximately 10-12 years though many have lived to 14 or 15.

To see my pups
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Sunday, November 8th 2009

9:17 PM

Does Your Dog Have Separation Anxiety?

Providing plenty of exercise is your first step toward curing separation anxiety in your dog. If you can't provide the time or duration of exercise your dog needs, consider hiring a dog walker or have someone take your dog on a long bike ride (after sufficient training, of course).

Perhaps you have a neighbor with a dog and can set up a 30 minute play date for the dogs. Teach
your dog to retrieve a Frisbee or a ball - great way to get him good hard exercise and save your energy at the same time! Get creative with ways to shed the excess energy. A tired dog is much more likely to accept separation - in fact, a tired dog may willingly want some time away to snooze.

Dogs with separation anxiety generally have low self-confidence so your job is to help the dog gain some confidence. Play games with your dog where your dog wins (such as fetch) and be liberal in praising and treating the dog. Hold 5 minute obedience lessons in your house and praise and treat for even beginning obedience items such as 'sit.' Attending an organized obedience training class is always beneficial to having more control over your dog - neither you nor your dog can ever have too much obedience training.

Dogs like structure and like feeling protected so provide an area just for your dog. The logical place is a crate. If your dog is crate trained, after proper exercise, lead him to the crate with a tasty treat. Give him something special and, hopefully, long lasting like a Kong chew toy stuffed with delightful concoctions. If your dog is not crate trained, I strongly suggest working on that but, you can also provide a different type of area just for your dog (the laundry room seems to be a popular site).

To train your dog to be more comfortable in this area, provide him bedding and spend lots of quality time in the area with him - play with him there, even feed him there. Make the particular area very appealing to the dog. Once you think the dog is more comfortable, leave him there for no more than a few minutes at first. If the dog barks or exhibits other separation anxiety symptoms, do NOT return right then - you must wait until your dog is calm to return and treat. If your dog exhibited symptoms during your brief absence, decrease your time away. Gradually you will increase the duration of your absence. Eventually, your dog should understand that you will always return.

Do NOT make a big deal out of either leaving or coming home. You can easily elevate a dog's anxiety level by becoming overly excited yourself. When
coming home, just enter the house and do not even address the dog - it will be hard at first but ignore him! Let him out of the crate, continue to ignore
him until he calms down. Make sure your visitors know the drill too.

Finally, dogs who exhibit separation anxiety are frequently confused about your leadership abilities. Remember, dogs are pack animals - they want a
clear alpha figure in their life. They do not want to be alpha - they want YOU to tell them what to do - think about it; it's much easier to follow (as long as you're confident you're being led correctly) than to lead - who really wants to worry about where the next meal is coming from?

A dog with separation anxiety might just be anxious about your whereabouts if he feels like he's in charge - it's possible that he feels somewhat responsible for your safety (this is a bit anthropomorphic but it's the only way to try and figure out what's going on in that doggie brain). Quite obviously, this is also where obedience lessons come in. Listen closely to the instructor so that you learn how to become a strong leader.

Lastly, practice patience. Separation anxiety can be cured but it may take a lot of time. I have a friend whose dog's separation anxiety was so deep that the dog was in danger (he chewed through a window once to escape the house). If the separation anxiety is to this level, take the dog to a veterinarian
immediately.

This is NOT normal separation anxiety, and it's quite possible that this type of dog will need a mild tranquilizer to get past the worst of the symptoms.
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Sunday, October 4th 2009

8:04 AM

Dog & Heatstroke

What is heatstroke?

In simple terms, heatstroke occurs when a dog loses its natural ability to regulate its body temperature. Dogs don't sweat all over their bodies the way humans do. Canine body temperature is primarily regulated through respiration (i.e., panting). If a dog's respiratory tract cannot evacuate heat quickly enough, heatstroke can occur.

To know whether or not your dog is suffering from heatstroke (as opposed to merely heat exposure), it's important to know the signs of heatstroke.

A dog's normal resting temperature is about 100.5 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit. Once a dog's temperature rises above 105 degrees, physiological changes start to take place, and the dog begins to experience the effects of heatstroke. At 106 to 108 degrees, the dog
begins to suffer irreversible damage to the kidneys, liver, gastrointestinal tract, heart and brain.

If a dog is experiencing heatstroke, you may observe excessive panting; hyperventilation; increased salivation; dry gums that become pale, grayish and tacky; rapid or erratic pulse; weakness; confusion;
inattention; vomiting; diarrhea; and possible rectal bleeding. If the dog continues to overheat, breathing efforts become slowed or absent, and finally, seizures or coma can occur.

The amount of damage a dog sustains when stricken with heatstroke depends on the magnitude and duration of the exposure. The longer and more severe the exposure, the worse the damage will be.

What to do:

1.  Pay attention to your dog. Recognizing the symptoms of heatstroke and responding quickly is essential for the best possible outcome.
.
2.   Get into the shade. If you think your dog is suffering from heatstroke, move it into a shaded area and out of direct sunlight. Apply cool water to the inner thighs and stomach of the dog, where there's a higher concentration of relatively superficial, large blood vessels.
Apply cool water to the foot pads, as well.

3.   Use running water. A faucet or hose is the best way to wet down your dog's body. Never submerge your dog in water, such as in a pool or tub - this could cool the dog too rapidly, leading to further
complications, including cardiac arrest and bloating.

4.  Use cool - not cold - water. Many people make the mistake of using cold water or ice to cool the dog. When faced with a dog suffering from heatstroke, remember that the goal is to cool the dog. Using ice or extremely cold water is actually counterproductive to this process because ice and cold water cause the blood vessels to constrict, which slows blood flow, thus slowing the cooling process.

5.   Don't cover the dog. One of the keys to successfully cooling your dog is ensuring the water being placed on the dog can evaporate. Never
cover an overheated dog with a wet towel or blanket. This inhibits evaporation and creates a sauna effect around your dog's body. Likewise,
don't wet the dog down and put it into an enclosed area, such as a kennel. Any air flow during the cooling process is helpful in reducing the dog's body temperature. Sitting with the wet dog in a running car with the air conditioner blowing is an ideal cooling situation.

6.   Keep the dog moving. It's important to try to encourage your dog to stand or walk slowly as it cools down. This is because the circulating blood tends to pool in certain areas if the dog is lying down, thus preventing the cooled blood from circulating back to the core.

7.   Allow the dog to drink small amounts of water. Cooling the dog is the first priority. Hydration is the next. Don't allow the dog to gulp water. Instead, offer small amounts of water that's cool, but not cold. If the dog drinks too much water too rapidly, it could lead to vomiting or bloat.

8.   Avoid giving human performance drinks.
Performance beverages designed for humans are not recommended because they are not formulated with the canines physiology in mind. If you can't get an overheated dog to drink water, try offering chicken-
or beef-based broths.

See a veterinarian:

Once your dog's temperature begins to drop, cease the cooling efforts and bring the dog to a veterinarian as soon as possible. Your dog's
temperature should be allowed to slowly return to normal once cooling has begun. A dog that's cooled too quickly may become hypothetic. Even if your dog appears to be fully recovered, the veterinarian needs
to check to determine if the heatstroke caused any damage to your dog's kidneys and liver. The effects of heatstroke can continue for 48 to 72 hours longer, even if your dog appears normal.

William Grant, DVM, a veterinarian for 20 years and former president of the Southern California Veterinary Medical Association, has treated
hundreds of cases of heatstroke, ranging from mild to fatal.

According to Grant, the most common cause of death following heatstroke is disseminated intra-vascular coagulopathy (blood coagulating throughout the body), or DIC, which can occur hours or days after the heatstroke episode. DIC can also be caused by pyometra or septicemia, but Grant says
heatstroke is the most common cause. "Once a dog develops DIC, it may bleed in the thorax, abdomen, nose and intestine," Grant says. "Once the blood-clotting factors are consumed, there is an inability of the blood vessels to prevent leaking; the condition is almost always fatal." For this reason, follow-up veterinary care is essential following a heatstroke episode, even if your dog seems to be completely fine.

Prevention is the best medicine:
 
The best treatment for heatstroke is prevention.
Especially during the summer months, it's essential to be aware of the potential for heatstroke. Knowing the signs of heatstroke, and taking the necessary steps to prevent it, will ensure your dog can have a safe and active life year-round.


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Wednesday, September 2nd 2009

12:47 AM

SB 250, California--HELP, HELP, HELP!!! All dog owners please read important

ALERT - URGENT - SB 250....MOVES TO THE ASSEMBLY FLOOR

The following link is the full text of SB 250.
 
As the following analysis by the CFODC of SB 250 indicates, this is where the rubber hits the road. SB250 passed the Assembly Appropriations Committee and is now headed for the entire Assembly. Its thrust and certain eventual effects will be to eliminate most dogs and cats from California.

Why? Because for every possible violation of state or local animal law, your dog or cat and all your other dogs and cats will be spayed or castrated. The CFODC has issued below red flags to show people, but even if you never show your dog or cat, if they accidentally escape from your property because someone left a gate open, or your dog barks at night and violates a local noise ordinance, or your pet isn't licensed, or a couple of days overdue with his rabies vax....boom, boom, you either lose the animal or have him or her castrated.
 
In fact, even if you do nothing wrong, if your intact dog or cat is not licensed and your town does not permit intact-animal licenses, then in order to be legally licensed, the dog or cat must be spayed or castrated. Exceptions for animals certified by a vet as too sick for surgery, but NO OTHER EXCEPTIONS for intact animals over six months old.
 
Fantastic! Californians and animal (especially) dog owners who visit California to participate in its many dog and cat shows contribute $14 billion (yes, FOURTEEN BILLION DOLLARS) to the California economy every year, and the legislature wants to get rid of this enormous source of income as if it were chump change? The same legislature trying to figure out how to pay off a $30 billion deficit?
 
The Nitty-Gritty: What YOU can do
 
 Following are a report on SB 250 from the CFODC; a link to Save Our Dogs wherein Californians can easily send opposition letters; and a full list of Assembly members with their contact information whom anyone from anywhere can call or write.

Assembly Floor

SB 250 passed the Appropriations Committee and will go to a full vote on the assembly floor. This is without a doubt the most destructive law ever for dog owners. Any dog at a show without a license on his collar, or off leash is in violation. The fact that obedience doesn’t allow tags in the ring, the fact that show dogs don’t wear tags in the ring, means NOTHING. You only get one chance. Once you’ve been cited, your dog is spayed or castrated and SO ARE ANY OTHER DOGS YOU OWN. You think they won’t come after you at a show? Just check around and see what they’re already doing.
 
 The Burbank shows are September 26 and 27. SB 250 could be on the books by then. Maybe it’s not likely, but what if? What if AC decides to make an example of us at that show? You could lose your entire breeding stock. If not Burbank, how about Riverside, San Gabriel, any show, anywhere in California? Every time you enter, you’ll be putting your dogs at risk, all of them.
 
 And if you’re one of those who flies under the radar and doesn’t license – and you get caught – you won’t need to commit a leash violation or anything else. You’ll be cited, dogs sterilized and you won’t be allowed to own an intact dog ever again.
 
 If you don’t show but you compete in obedience or agility, chances are you already spay/neuter your dogs and think none of this applies to you.. Dogs get old, they retire, time for a new puppy. Where will you get that puppy? From a breeder? Yeah, right.
 
 We have eleven days to make the biggest stink Sacramento has ever seen. Remind them that this bill will cost the state a fortune. Call, write, fax, email. Then do it again. Tell everyone you know to do the same.
 
 Here is the Save Our Dogs website, where Californians can just provide their names and addresses, and Save Our Dogs will send an opposition letter for you to your own elected legislators. Everyone else from anywhere can and should read the website for all sorts of interesting background information and analysis of SB 250.
 
Save Our Dogs

Assembly Member List:
 
 EVERY MEMBER of the Assembly needs to hear from you. The list is divided into Democrats and Republicans only because my computer isn't letting me integrate the two lists with cut and paste. But I cannot emphasize too strongly (with much thanks to SpinDoggies) that it's just as important to contact Republican assembly members as Democratic. Be sure the other side isn't leaving one person un-contacted.
 
 Anyone from anywhere should contact all Assembly members if possible. If you live out of state your best argument is that you will never again visit California if SB 250 passes, because you would be afraid to show your dogs there or even to stay with friends or family with your pets.
 
 As well, please don't make the "not my Isaac" mistake. If SB 250 passes in California, then similar laws will pass everywhere else. California is the big enchilada, and what obtains in California is what will soon obtain everywhere else.
 
Here is their contact info. Except for the room number, all addresses are the same: State Capitol, Sacramento, CA 95814
 
 Democrats
 
 Tom Ammiano (San Francisco)
 916-319-2013
 Room 2175
 Fax 916-319-2113
 
 Juan Arambula (Fresno)
 916-319-2031
 Room 2141
 Fax 916-319-2131
 
 Karen Bass (speaker) (Los Angeles)
 916-319-2047
 Room 219
 Fax 916-319-2147
 
 Jim Beall, Jr. (San Jose)
 916-319-2024
 Room 5016
 Fax 916-319-2124
 
 Marty Block (Lemon Grove)
 916-319-2078
 Room 3132
 Fax 916-319-2178
 
 Bob Blumenfield (Van Nuys)
 916-319-2049
 Fax 916-319-2140
 
 Julia Brownley (Woodland Hills)
 916-319-2041
 Room 2163
 Fax 916-319-2141
 
 Joan Buchanan (San Ramon)
 916-319-2015
 Room 4167
 Fax 916-319-2115
 
 Anna M. Caballero (Salinas)
 916-319-2028
 Room 5119
 Fax 916-319-2128
 
 Charles M. Calderon (City of Industry)
 916-319-2058
 Fax 916-319-2158
 
 Wilmer Amin a Carter (Rialto)
 916-319-2062
 Room 2136
 Fax 916-319-2162
 
 Wesley Chesbro (Santa Rosa)
 916-319-2001
 Room 2176
 Fax 916-319-2101
 
 Joe Coto (San Jose)
 916-319- 2023
 Room 2013
 Fax 916-319-2123
 
 Mike Davis (Los Angeles)
 916-319-2048
 Room 2160
 Fax 916-319-2148
 
 Hector de la Torre (South Gate)
 916-319-2050
 Room 4016
 Fax 16-319-2150
 
 Kevin de Leon (Los Angeles)
 916-319-2045
 Room 2114
 Fax 916-319-2145
 
 Mike Eng (El Monte)
 916-319-2049
 Room 4140
 Fax 916-319-2149
 
 Noreen Evans (Napa)
 916-319-2007
 Room 6026
 916-319-2107
 
 Mike Feuer (West Hollywood)
 916-319-2042
 Room 3146
 Fax 916-319-2142
 
 Paul Fong (Mountain View)
 916-319-2022
 Room 5135
 Fax 916-319-2122
 
 Felipe Fuentes (Arleta)
 916-319-2039
 Fax 916-319-2139
 
 Warren T. Furutani (Long Beach)
 916-319-2055
 Room 3126
 Fax 916-319-2155
 
 Cathleen Galgiani (Merced)
 916-319-2017
 Room 5155
 Fax 916-319-2117
 
 Martin Garrick (Carlsbad)
 916-319-2074
 Room 2158
 Fax 916-319-2174
 
 Isadore Hall III (Compton)
 916-319-2052
 Fax 916-319-2152
 
 Mary Hayashi (Hayward)
 916-319-2018
 Room 3013
 Fax 916-319-2118
 
 Edward P. Hernandez (West Covina)
 916-319-2057
 Room 4112
 Fax 916-319-2157
 
 Jerry Hill (San Mateo)
 916-319-2019
 Room 4146
 Fax 916-319-2119
 
 Alyson Huber (Lodi)
 916-319-2010
 Room 5175
 Fax 916-319-2110
 
 Jared Huffman (Petaluma)
 916-319-2006
 Room 3120
 Fax 916-329-2106
 
 
 Dave Jones (Sacramento)
 916-319-2009
 Room=2 06005
 Fax 916-319-2109
 
 Paul Krekorian (Burbank)
 916-319-2043
 Room 4005
 Fax 916-319-2143
 
 Ted W. Lieu (El Segundo)
 916-319-2053
 Room 3173
 Fax 916-319-2153
 
 Bonnie Lowenthal (Long Beach)
 916-319-2054
 Room 5158
 Fax 916-319-2154
 
 Fiona Ma (San Francisco)
 916-319-2012
 Room 3091
 Fax 916-319-2112
 
 Tony Mendoza (Norwalk)
 916-319-2056
 Room 2188
 Fax 916-319-2156
 
 William W. Monning (Santa Cruz)
 916-319-2027
 Room 5150
 Fax 916-319-2127
 
 Pedro Nava (Santa Barbara)
 916-319-2035
 Room 2148
 Fax 916-319-2135
 
 John A. Perez (Los Angeles)
 916-319-2046
 Room 3160
 Fax 916-319-2146
 
 V. Manuel Perez (Indio)
 916-319-2080
 Room 4162
 Fax 916-319-2180
 
 Anthony Portantino (Pasadena)
 916-319-2044
 Room 2003
 Fax 916-319-2144
 
 Ira Ruskin (Los Altos)
 916-319-2021
 Room 3123
 Fax 916-319-2121
 
 Mary Salas (Chula Vista)
 916-319-2079
 Room 2137
 Fax 916-319-2179
 
 Lori Saldana (San Diego)
 916-319-2076
 Room 3152
 Fax 916-319-2176
 
 Nancy Skinner (Oakland)
 916-319-2014
 Fax 916-319-2114
 
 Jose Solorio (Anaheim)
 916-319-2069
 Fax 916-319-2169
 
 Sandre R. Swanson (Oakland)
 916-319 -2016
 Room 6012
 Fax 916-319-2116
 
 Tom Torlakson (Antioch)
 916-319-2011
 Fax 916-319-2111
 
 Norma J. Torres (Ontario)
 916-319-2061
 Room 4164
 Fax 916-319-2161
 
 Alberto Torrico (Fremont)
 916-319-2020
 Room 319
 Fax 916-319-2120
 
 Mariko Yamada (Vacaville)
 916-319-2008
 Room 5144
 Fax 916-319-2108
 
 Republicans:
 
 Adams, Anthony - Claremont
 Ph: 916) 319-2059 ;
 Fx: 916) 319-2159
 State Capitol, Room 4015
 Sacramento, CA 95814
 
 Anderson, Joe - El Cajon
 Room 2130
 Ph: 916) 319-2077 ;
 Fx: 916) 319-2177
 
 Berryhill, Bill - Stockton
 Ph: 916-319-2026 ;
 Fx: 916-319-2126
 Room 3141
 
 Berryhill, Tom - Modesto
 Ph: 916-319-2025 ;
 Fx: 916-319-2125
 Room 4009
 
 Blakeslee, Sam - San Luis Obispo
 Ph: 916-319-2033 ;
 Fx: 916-319-2133
 Room 3104
 
 Conway, Connie - Visalia
 Ph: 916) 319-2034 ;
 Fx: 916) 319-2134
 Room 2174
 
 Cook, Paul - Yucalpa
 Ph: 916-319-2065 ;
 Fx: 916-319-2165
 Room 5164
 
 DeVore, Chuck - Irvine
 Ph: 916) 319-2070 ;
 Fx: 916) 319-2170
 Room 4102
 
 Duvall, Michael - Brea
 Ph: 916) 319-2072 ;
 Fx: 916) 319-2172
 Room 4139
 
 Emmerson, Bill - Rancho Cucamonga
 Ph: 916-319-2063 ;
 Fx: 916-319-2163
 Room 4158
 
 Fletcher, Nathan - San Diego
 Ph: 916-319-2075 ;
 Fx: 916-319-2175
 Room 2111
 
 Fuller, Jean - Bakersfield
 Ph: 916-319-2032 ;
 Fx: 916-319-2132
 Room 3098
 
 Gaines, Ted - Roseville
 Ph: 916-319-2004 ;
 Fx: 916-319-2104
 Room 4144
 
 Garrick, Martin - Carlsbad
 Ph: 916-319-2074 ;
 Fx: 916-319-2174
 Room 2158
 
 Gilmore, Danny D. - Hanford
 Ph: 916-319-2030,
 916-319-2130
 Room 5126
 
 Hagman, Curt - Chino Hills
 Ph: 916-319-2060 ;
 Fx: 916-319-2160
 Room 4116
 
 Harkey, Diane L. - San Juan Capistrano
 Ph: 916) 319-2073 ;
 Fx: 916) 319-2173
 Room 4177
 
 Jeffries, Kevin - Murrieta
 Ph: 916-319-2066 ;
 Fx: 916-319-2166
 Room 5128
 
 Knight, Steve - almdale
 Ph: 916) 319-2036 ;
 Fx: 916) 319-2136
 Room 2016
 
 Logue, Dan - Chico
 Ph: 916-319-2003 ;
 Fx: 916-319-2103
 Room 2002
 
 Miller, Jeff - Mission Viejo
 Ph: 916-319-2071 ;
 Fx: 916-319-2171
 Room 3147
 
 Nestande, Brian - Riverside
 Ph: 916-319-2064 ;
 Fx: 916-319-2164
 Room 4153
 
 Nielsen, Jim - Redding
 Ph: 916-319-2002 ;
 Fx: 916-319-2102
 Room 6027
 
 Silva, Jim - Huntington Beach
 Ph: 916-319-2067 ;
 Fx: 916-319-2167
 Room 2170
 
 Smyth, Cameron - Santa Clarita
 Ph: 916-319-2038 ;
 Fx: 916-319-2138
 Room 4098
 
 Strickland, Audra - Westlake Village
 Ph: 916-319-2037 ;
 Fx: 916-319-2137
 Room 4208
 
 Tran, Van - Costa Mesa
 Ph: 916)319-2068 ;
 Fx: 916)319-2168
 Room 4130
 
 Villines, Michael N. - Fresno
 Ph: 916) 319-2029 ;
 Fx: 916) 319-2129
 Room 4117
 
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Monday, August 3rd 2009

4:45 PM

People foods' that can kill your pet

It feels good to treat your pet to human food every once in awhile. Those puppy dog eyes are hard to resist as they watch you eat and try to convince you that they are starving! It makes you want to give them a taste of everything you eat. But beware: Giving into those eyes and giving them human foods can actually harm them.

In 2007, the ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center received more than 130,000 calls. Most cases of animal poisoning were caused by common human foods and household items.
Many foods we enjoy can be dangerous to animals. It's best to stick to pet food and a diet recommended by your vet. Here are a few of the most toxic foods that can harm your pet:

Bad news foods:

Avocados
They contain a toxic component called persin, which can damage heart, lung and other tissue in many animals. This fruit is very toxic to dogs, cats and most animals.

Beer
Alcoholic beverages can cause the same damage to an animal's liver and brain as they cause in humans. But the effects can be deadly on animals since they are much smaller than us. The smaller the animal, the more deadly the effects can be. Even a small amount of alcohol may cause vomiting and damage the liver and brain.

Nuts
Walnuts and macadamia nuts are especially toxic. Effects can be anything from vomiting to paralysis to death. Within 12 hours of eating the nuts, pets start to develop symptoms such as an inability to stand or walk, vomiting, hyperthermia (elevated body temperature), weakness, and an elevated heart rate. These symptoms can be even worse if your dog eats some chocolate with the nuts. The effect can cause kidney failure, often leading to death.

Chocolate
Chocolate contains theobromine, which can kill your pet if eaten in large quantities. Dark and unsweetened baking chocolates are especially dangerous. Giving your pup a piece of chocolate cake or even letting him lick the chocolate icing on the cake could cause him to become ill. Theobromine can also cause a dog or cat's heart to beat very rapidly or irregularly, which could result in death if the pet is exercising or overly active.

Candy
Candy or anything containing Xylitol (a common sweetener found in some diet products) can cause a sudden drop in an animal's blood sugar, loss of coordination and seizures. If left untreated, the animal could die.

Caffeine
Coffee, tea or any product that contains caffeine stimulates an animal's central nervous and cardiac systems. This can lead to restlessness, heart palpitations and death, depending on how much the animal consumes.

Grapes and raisins
Grapes and raisins can lead to kidney failure in dogs. As little as a single serving of raisins can kill them. And the effects are cumulative, which means that even if a dog eats just one or two grapes or raisins regularly, the toxin that builds in his system will eventually kill him.

Onions
Onions are another common food that can be highly toxic to pets. They can destroy an animal's red blood cells and lead to anemia, weakness and breathing difficulties. Their effects are also cumulative over time.

Medicine
Hide medicine from your pets just like you would from your children. The most common cause of pet poisoning is from animals ingesting a medicine or drug normally prescribed for humans.
And this is not just because furry pals are getting into their pet parent's medicine cabinets. In many cases, pet owners give their feline and canine friends an over-the-counter medication to ease an animal's pain. But acetaminophen and ibuprofen, the active ingredients in many common pain relievers, are extremely toxic to dogs and cats. They can cause gastric ulcers, liver damage, kidney failure and sometimes death.

Good news foods
There are a few things that you CAN give to your furry pal. However, you should always consult a veterinarian before introducing a new food item to your pet.
Although these foods are normally harmless, some animals have sensitive gastrointestinal tracts. So even these healthy treats should be avoided if they cause gastrointestinal upset for your pet. Keep in mind that these and other "extras" should not make up more than 5 to 10 percent of the pet's daily caloric intake.

Lean meats
Any cooked lean meat should be fine for most dogs. High fat meats, chicken skin and fat from steaks or roasts are not recommended. Ingestion may lead to gastrointestinal upset or even pancreatitis. This can be a very painful condition for dogs. In addition, most companion animals do not need extra fat in their diets. Never give your pet meat with the bone in it. Animals can choke on the bones, and they can splinter as well.

Vegetables
Carrot sticks, green beans, cucumber slices and zucchini slices are all OK.

Fruit
Apple slices, orange slices, bananas, watermelon are all OK. Make sure the seeds have been taken out; seeds are not good for your pet!

Baked potatoes
Plain baked potatoes is fine, but make sure they are cooked - no unripe potatoes or potato plants.

Bread
Plain cooked bread is fine, just make sure there are no nuts or raisins added.

Rice and pasta
Plain, cooked pasta or white rice are OK. Often veterinarians recommend plain rice and with some boiled chicken when gastrointestinal upset is present.

In case of emergency
Despite all the precautions you take to keep your pet pals safe, accidents do happen. That's why the ASPCA, Humane Society and animal advocates advise pet owners to keep the telephone number of their local veterinarian and the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center - 888- 426-4435 - in a prominent location.

Common signs of poisoning include muscle tremors or seizures; vomiting and diarrhea; drooling; redness of skin, ears and eyes; and swelling and bleeding.

If you suspect your pet has consumed, inhaled or come in contact with a toxic substance, stay calm and call for help immediately. If you see your pet consuming anything you think might be toxic, seek emergency help immediately even if she or he is not exhibiting any symptoms.

 
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Thursday, July 16th 2009

4:22 PM

German Shepherd Training

The German Shepherd is an intelligent dog that loves to be trained and being a working breed, requires a task to stay happy. German Shepherd training is not difficult as this type of dog picks up things very fast and is an eager
learner.

German Shepherd training, if properly followed, will result in having a well mannered dog that will not have any behavior problems and in this respect it is essential to teach it to respect the owner.

The German Shepherd lives much like other dogs and thus may not easily associate itself with what occurred a few seconds ago.

German Shepherd training is easy as they are keen as well as intelligent and enjoy learning. Therefore, giving them basic obedience training should not pose much of a problem as many German Shepherds are even adept at learning tricks. One would be surprised at how well and quickly it can pick up what is taught and one should make it a point to reward it for good behavior as it may make a connection between accomplishment and reward even though it is not always easy for the dog to do so. Petting and kind words acts as a bridge in understanding what is desired from the dog.

Socializing the German Shepherd is an essential part of its training regime as it will ensure that one gets the best out of its breeding traits and also ensures that it will be comfortable with the owner. Behavioral training will
rectify bad habits such as jumping, car chasing, begging, climbing on furniture as well as chewing.

The German Shepherd should be dealt with firmly and consistently when training it and one should prohibit it from activities that are simply not allowed. Being ambivalent would only confuse it.

German Shepherd obedience training is also essential and making the dog understand commands such as ‘sit’, ‘no’, ‘stop’ are essential and can be performed in various locations so that the dog gets the hang of it and
generalizes its behavior as well as enhances its learning curve. The timing of the obedience training session should be frequent though not too long as extended sessions can easily bore the German Shepherd.

Ideally, one could spend ten to fifteen minutes twice or thrice a day teaching it commands such ‘sit’, ‘stay’, ‘heel’ and ‘come.

German Shepherd potty training is essential and it should be taught to keep its crate clean and go and eliminate outside. This will take time and requires a great deal of patience. The best time for German Shepherd potty
training would be when it is young since puppies often relieve themselves six times a day approximately and so, need to be taught where to eliminate. Potty training requires that it be taken out immediately after meals and there are several other methods of potty training it and one can choose whichever they feel is the most convenient for their lifestyle.

It is also necessary to teach your German Shepherd outside training so that it does not make enemies of your neighbors. A barking dog can be a nuisance and
one may need to use special collars that eliminate excessive barking in the dog as they give mild electrical stimulation every time it barks. German Shepherd obedience training is also a very important aspect of the dog’s training program and the owner should learn as much as possible about it. (Trainer in Long Beach, CA Terry Long) @ www.dogpact.com


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Tuesday, June 2nd 2009

3:41 PM

To neuter or not to neuter...?

Those of us with responsibility for the health of canine athletes need to continually read and evaluate new scientific studies to ensure that we are taking the most appropriate care of our performance dogs. This article provides evidence through a number of recent studies to suggest that veterinarians and owners with canine athletes should revisit the standard protocol in which all dogs that are not intended for breeding are spayed and neutered at or before 6 months of age.

Orthopedic Considerations:

A study by Salmeri et al in 1991 found that bitches spayed at 7 weeks grew significantly taller than those spayed at 7 months, and that those spayed at 7 months had significantly delayed closure of the growth plates than those not spayed (or presumably spayed after the growth plates had closed).

(1) A study of 1444 Golden Retrievers performed in 1998 and 1999 also found bitches and dogs spayed and neutered at less than a year of age were significantly taller than those spayed or neutered at more than a year of age.

(2) The sex hormones promote the closure of the growth plates, so the bones of dogs or bitches neutered or spayed before puberty continue to grow. Dogs that have been spayed or neutered well before puberty can frequently be identified by their longer limbs, lighter bone structure, narrow chests and narrow skulls. This abnormal growth frequently results in significant alterations in body proportions and particularly the lengths (and therefore weights) of certain bones relative to others. For example, if the femur has achieved its genetically determined normal length at 8 months when a dog gets spayed or neutered, but the tibia, which normally stops growing at 12 to 14 months of age continues to grow, then an abnormal angle may develop at the stifle. In addition, with the extra growth, the lower leg below the stifle becomes heavier (because it is longer), causing increased stresses on the cranial cruciate ligament. These structural alterations may be the reason why at least one recent study has shown that spayed and neutered dogs have a higher incidence of CCL rupture.

(3) Another recent study showed that dogs spayed or neutered before 5 1/2 months had a significantly higher incidence of hip dysplasia than those spayed or neutered after 5 1/2 months of age.

(4) Breeders of purebred dogs should be concerned about these two studies and particularly the latter, because they might make incorrect breeding decisions if they consider the hip status of pups they bred that were spayed or neutered early.

Cancer Considerations:

There is a slightly increased risk of mammary cancer if a female dog has one heat cycle. But my experience indicates that fewer canine athletes develop mammary cancer as compared to those that damage their cranial cruciate ligaments. In addition, only about 30 % of mammary cancers are malignant and, as in humans, when caught and surgically removed early the prognosis is very good.

(5) Since canine athletes are handled frequently and generally receive prompt veterinary care, mammary cancer is not quite the specter it has been in the past. A retrospective study of cardiac tumors in dogs showed that there was a 5 times greater risk of hemangiosarcoma, one of the three most common cancers in dogs, in spayed bitches than intact bitches and a 2.4 times greater risk of hemangiosarcoma in neutered dogs as compared to intact males.

(6) A study of 3218 dogs demonstrated that dogs that were neutered before a year of age had a significantly increased chance of developing bone cancer, a cancer that is much more life-threatening than mammary cancer, and that affects both genders.

(7) A separate study showed that neutered dogs had a two-fold higher risk of developing bone cancer.

( Despite the common belief that neutering dogs helps prevent prostate cancer, at least one study suggests that neutering provides no benefit.

Behavioral Considerations:

(9)The study that identified a higher incidence of cranial cruciate ligament rupture in spayed or neutered dogs also identified an increased incidence of sexual behaviors in males and females that were neutered early.

(3) Further, the study that identified a higher incidence of hip dysplasia in dogs neutered or spayed before 5 1/2 months also showed that early age gonadectomy was associated with an increased incidence of noise phobias and undesirable sexual behaviors.

(4) A recent report of the American Kennel Club Canine Health Foundation reported significantly more behavioral problems in spayed and neutered bitches and dogs. The most commonly observed behavioral problem in spayed females was fearful behavior and the most common problem in males was aggression.

(10) Yet another study showed that unneutered males were significantly less likely than neutered males to suffer cognitive impairment when they were older.

(11) Females were not evaluated in that study.

Other Health Considerations:

A number of studies have shown that there is an increase in the incidence of female urinary incontinence in dogs spayed early.

(12) Interestingly, neutering also has been associated with an increased likelihood of urethral sphincter incontinence in males.

(13) This problem is an inconvenience, and not usually life-threatening, but nonetheless one that requires the dog to be medicated for life. A health survey of several thousand Golden Retrievers showed that spayed or neutered dogs were more likely to develop hypothyroidism.

(2) This study is consistent with the results of another study in which neutering and spaying was determined to be the most significant gender-associated risk factor for development of hypothyroidism.

(14) Infectious diseases were more common in dogs that were spayed or neutered at 24 weeks or less as opposed to those undergoing gonadectomy at more than 24 weeks.

(15) Finally, the AKC-CHF report demonstrated a higher incidence of adverse reactions to vaccines in neutered dogs as compared to intact.

For these reasons, I have significant concerns with spaying or neutering dogs before puberty, particularly for the canine athlete. And frankly, if something were healthier for the canine athlete, would we not also want that for pet dogs as well?

But of course, there is the pet overpopulation problem. How can we prevent the production of unwanted dogs while still leaving the gonads to produce the hormones that are so important to canine growth and development?

The answer is to perform vasectomies in males and tubal ligation in females, to be followed after maturity by ovariohysterectomy in females to prevent mammary cancer and pyometra.

One possible disadvantage is that vasectomy does not prevent some unwanted behaviors associated with males such as marking and humping. On the other hand, it has been my experience that females and neutered males actively participate in these behaviors too.

 Really, training is the best solution for these issues. Another possible disadvantage is finding a veterinarian who is experienced in performing these procedures. Nonetheless, some do, and if the procedures were in greater demand, more veterinarians would learn them.

I believe it is important that we assess each situation individually. If a pet dog is going to live with an intelligent, well-informed family that understands the problem of pet overpopulation and can be trusted to keep the dog under their control at all times and to not breed it, I do not recommend spaying or neutering before 14 months of age.

In the case of dogs that might be going to less vigilant families, vasectomy and tubal ligation will allow proper growth while preventing unwanted pregnancies.
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