A dog is a dog is a dog, sure. But a good German Shepherd is one of a kind. A good German Shepherd has various required components, and with those components securely in place - - you can do it all with your dog, and that includes having an outstanding "pet".

The German Shepherd is a working dog, this much is true - - - but you'll note that all of the work that a Shepherd is supposed to do is at the direction of a human being. The bond they develop with their master is what makes this breed so special, and makes them such powerful workers, because they take direction and orders from their masters like a truly good worker should.

In turn, this is also what makes them amazing family companions too, as they bond as heavily to their families - and form strong and meaningful canine-human relationships with their families. Work, to the dog, can be as silly as chasing the same ball at the same park for the 10th year in a row, to chasing down criminals to make their 100th arrest as a police K9. "WE" see a difference in the two types of "work" - but the dog doesn't. All he knows is that he gets to spend the time with you, doing what you asked, and being praised and played with on account of his good behavior.

We think of search dogs as doing something noble and heroic - - - the search dog himself only knows that if he finds this human being who is "hidden" out there somewhere, he will get his ball, or a treat, or a really great play session with his handler.

Frankly, the dog could care less about whose life he saved, so long as the reward is brought out quickly and he gets to spend time with YOU on account of whatever he found.

As this breed divides into various lines, and the differences become progressively more drastic - it seems to have become a popular misconception that show-lines are better pets, and working lines should go to police departments and such. I disagree vehemently.

While most working line breeders do not breed FOR the pet market - - they breed the true German Shepherd the way this breed was meant to be (assuming you have found a breeder who is indeed a good breeder with excellent dogs), based on the original standard and purpose of this breed. In my mind, one of the most important facets of a truly good German Shepherd temperament is the ability to make an outstanding pet. If he cannot bond heavily to his owner and family to be first and foremost a great companion - - then his working ability becomes near meaningless to me as half of what he is supposed to have been is missing.

A dog who falls apart if not worked 24 hours a day, paces endlessly in his kennel enough to wear out the pads on his feet until he is taken out to work, goes in circles all day chasing his tail, and is missing an "off" switch may happen to be an outstanding worker in certain fields, but is not a good German Shepherd in my mind - and consequently, that is not a dog which I would breed as a German Shepherd Dog.

There is no component of what makes a good German Shepherd that the pet home does not need compared to the working home. Nerves? I will settle for nothing less than exemplary, topnotch nerves to trust any dog in a household with children, people coming and going, and a bustling family lifestyle. I would not leave anything less with my own children - - why should anyone else?

When picking a puppy for a family who is wanting a pet, I look for the best nerved puppies in the litter first - and then try to assess their drive levels to see which puppy suits the lifestyle of the family the most. Drives? Sure, the working home might demand higher drives in their puppies, but the most popular misconception seems to be that "high drive" is synonymous to "hyper". That is simply not the case! To me, a high drive dog is not necessarily the most energetic one, but rather a dog who can go from 0-100 the quickest.

When you want the dog in drive, whether it be to play or work or just leave the house, he/she is immediately in drive and ready to go, go, go, and right NOW, at that. When not in use - there should be no way to tell how high drive your dog is, but when needed, it shows instantly and is unmistakable. Hyper dogs are a different story altogether, and a type I cannot tolerate in my own home.

There are lines that will have better show-ring conformation than the working line German Shepherds, and there are lines that will win more awards in the AKC show-ring, and so forth. There are lines who will have more reddish coats than the working line Shepherds, and there are dogs who will have more slant to their top-line than most slides in children's playgrounds do.

But when it comes to temperament, strong nerves, and courage - - when you take into consideration a dog's clear head, sound mind, and stable character - - it is my belief (and in my mind - downright FACT), that very few breeds out there can compare to the working line German Shepherd.

Once a person has experienced a truly good German Shepherd from strong working lineage and good breeding, it is my opinion that you cannot go back to anything less.

I don't choose friends who are weak and show cowardice, crumble under a little pressure or stress, or are completely unstable to keep me company. Most definitely, I do not want my dog to show those attributes either. When you play, you play hard. When you fight, you fight to conquer. When you eat, you eat like it's your last meal. When you run, you run like you can fly.

A powerful and loyal friend to the end who you know beyond all doubt is standing by your side is my idea of the ideal companion, or in other words, a true "pet dog". I don't feel a dog becomes a working dog if it cannot be a pet, but on the contrary - a dog must have potential to be an outstanding companion FIRST in order to even begin to qualify as a great working dog.

Owning a dog can be an extremely rewarding experience, but it requires a commitment to years of responsible care.

What Type of Playing Should I Expect From a Puppy?

Stimulating play is important during the first week. Stalking and pouncing are important play behaviors in puppies and are necessary for proper muscular development. If given a sufficient outlet for these behaviors with toys, your puppy will be less likely to use family members for these activities. The best toys are Iight and movable. These include wads of paper and rubber balls. Any toy that is small enough to be swallowed should be avoided.

Can I Discipline a Puppy?

Disciplining a young puppy may be necessary if its behavior threatens people or property, but harsh punishment should be avoided. Hand clapping and using shaker cans or horns can be intimidating enough to inhibit undesirable behavior. However, remote punishment is preferred. Remote punishment consists of using something that appears unconnected to the punisher to stop the problem behavior. Examples include using spray bottles, throwing objects in the direction of the puppy to startle (but not hit) it, and making loud noises. Remote punishment is preferred because the puppy associates punishment with the undesirable act and not with you.

Should My Puppy Be Vaccinated?

Vaccination is a double-edged sword.  On the one hand vaccines has cause irreparable harm to our pets.  Vaccines are even known to cause cancer.  On the other hand, immunization in the right situation can save lives.  Personally I do not recommend vaccination of most pets.  My own dogs and cats only receive the rabies inoculation as required by law every three years.  Vaccination can be useful in the midst of an epidemic or when a puppy is exposed frequently to sick dogs, e.g. the puppy of a vet tech who doesn't understand the harm of vaccination.  In my opinion, you should consult a homeopathic veterinarian and consider homeopathic prophylaxis with a constitutional homeopathic remedy before giving any vaccinations.  Treatment and prophylaxis start 1-2 weeks after obtaining a new pet.  Schedule these visits 3-5 weeks apart until 4 months of age or until the symptoms of imbalance are gone.

If you still feel neglectful of your puppy due to not vaccinating you really shouldn't.  If you still do, please get input from a vaccinologist and a noted immunologist. Regardless of whether you have a holistic or homeopathic veterinarian you need to have a discussion about vaccination to find the right path for you.

Do All Puppies Have Worms?

Intestinal parasites are common in puppies. Puppies can become infected with parasites before they are born or later through their mother's milk. The microscopic examination of a stool sample will usually help to determine the presence of intestinal parasites. This exam is recommended for all puppies, if your veterinarian can get a stool sample. Please bring one at your earliest convenience. Even without t a stool sample, the use of a deworming product that is safe and effective against several of the common worms of the dog is recommended. It is important that deworming be repeated in about 3-4 weeks, because the deworming medication kills only the adult worms. Within 3-4 weeks, the larval stages will have become adults and will need to be treated. Dogs remain susceptible to reinfection with hookworms and roundworms. Periodic deworming throughout the dog's life may be recommended for dogs that go outdoors.

Tapeworms are the most common intestinal parasite of dogs. Puppies become infected with them when they swallow fleas; the eggs of the tapeworm live inside the flea. When the puppy chews or licks its skin as a flea bites, the flea may be swallowed. The flea is digested within the dog's intestine; the tapeworm hatches and then anchors itself to the intestinal lining. Therefore, exposure to fleas may result in a new infection; this can occur in as little as two weeks.

Dogs infected with tapeworms will pass small segments of the worms in their stool. The segments are white in color and look like grains of rice. They are about 1/8 inch (3 mm) long and may be seen crawling on the surface of the stool. They may also stick to the hair under the tail. If that occurs, they will dry out, shrink to about half their size, and become golden in color.

Tapeworm segments do not pass every day or in every stool sample; therefore, inspection of several consecutive bowel movements may be needed to find them. Your veterinarian may examine a stool sample in his office and not find worm segments, but then the next day they may appear. If you find them at any time, notify your veterinarian.

How Dangerous Are Heartworms?

Heartworms are important parasites, especially in certain climates. They can live in your dog's heart and cause major damage to the heart and lungs. Heartworms are transmitted by mosquitoes so your dog does not have to be in contact with another dog to be exposed. Fortunately, there are drugs that will protect your dog from heartworms. These drugs are very safe and very effective if given regularly. Be aware that having a long haircoat or staying primarily indoors does not protect a dog against heartworm infection.

There Are Lots of Choices of Dog Foods. What Should I Feed My Puppy?

Diet is extremely important in the growing months of a dog's life, and there are two important criteria that should be met in selecting food for your puppy. A name-brand food made by a national dog food company (not a generic or local brand), and a form of food made for adults are recommended. Depending on the size of your puppy, it should get adult food all of its life. Only food with the AAFCO certification is recommended. Certifification usually appears on the label. AAFCO is an organization which oversees the pet food industry. Its certification is not an endorsement but an assurance that the food has met minimum nutritional requirements. Most commercial pet foods carry the AAFCO label. Generic brands often do not. In Canada, look for foods which are approved by the Canadian Veterinary Medical Association (CVMA).

Feeding a dry or canned dog food is acceptable. Each has advantages and disadvantages. Dry food is the most inexpensive. Soak dry food well before feeding to larger breed puppies in order to avoid bloat later in life. Allow dry kibble to sit in water for 5-10 minutes before feeding. It can be left available dry (no soaking) during the day for smaller breeds that may enjoy snacking. Always read the label; not all pet foods (even "super premium") are equal. Store dry food properly so that it remains nutritious.

Canned foods are also acceptable. However, hey are considerably more expensive than dry food. They often appeal more to the dog's taste, but they are not more nutritious. If you feed a very tasty food, you are running the risk of creating a dog with a finicky appetite. Certain high-quality fresh foods often round out an excellent diet.

How Do I Insure That My Puppy Is Well-Socialized?

The socialization period for dogs is between 4 and 16 weeks of age. During that time, the puppy is very impressionable to social influences. If it has good experiences with men, women, children, cats, and other dogs, it is likely to accept them throughout life. If the experiences are absent or unpleasant, the puppy may become apprehensive or adverse to any of them. Therefore, during the period of socialization, your dog should be exposed to as many kinds of social events and influences as possible.

What Can Be Done About Fleas?

Many of the flea control products that are safe on adult dogs are not safe for puppies less than four months of age. Fleas [Use your browser's BACK BUTTON to return to this page] do not stay on your puppy all the time. Occasionally, they will jump off and seek another host, and flea eggs are laid off your dog. Therefore, it is important to kill fleas on your new puppy before they can become established in your house. A flea comb will help isolate any adult fleas your puppy may have. The once-a-month oral flea pill "Program®" prevents flea infestation by sterilizing the fleas and preventing their eggs from hatching.

Can I Trim My Puppy's Sharp Toe Nails?

Puppies have very sharp toe nails. They can be trimmed with your regular finger nail clippers or with nail trimmers made for dogs and cats. If you take too much off the nail, you will get into the quick; bleeding and pain will occur. If this happens, neither you nor your dog will want to do this again.

A few points are helpful:

1. If your dog has clear or white nails, you can see the pink of the quick through the nail. Avoid the pink area, and you will injure the quick.
   
   
2. If your dog has black nails, you will not be able to see the quick, so only cut 1/32-of-an-inch (1 mm) of the nail at a time until the dog begins to get sensitive. The sensitivity will usually occur before you are into a blood vessel. With black nails, it is likely that you will get too close on at least one nail.
   
   
3. If your dog has some clear and some black nails, use the average clear nail as a guide for cutting the black ones.
   
   
4. When cutting nails, use sharp trimmers. Dull trimmers tend to crush the nail and cause pain even if you are not in the quick.
   
   
5. You should always have styptic powder available. This is sold in pet stores under several trade names, but it will be labeled for use in trimming nails.

What Are Ear Mites?

Ear mites are tiny parasites that live in the ear canal of dogs (and cats). The most common sign of ear mite infection is scratching of the ears. Sometimes the ears will appear dirty because of a black material in the ear canal; this material is sometimes shaken out. An instrument for examining the ear canals, an otoscope, has the necessary magnification to allow us to see the mites. Sometimes the mites can b found by taking a small amount of the black material from the ear canal and examining it with a microscope. Although mites may leave the ear canals for short periods of time, they spend the vast majority of their lives within its protection. Transmission generally requires direct ear-to-ear contact. Ear mites are common in litters of puppies whose mother has ear mites.

Ear infections may also cause the production of a dark discharge in the ear canals. It is important that your puppy be examined to ensure the black material is due to ear mites and not infection.

Why Should I Have My Female Dog Spayed?

Spaying offers several advantages. The female's heat periods result in about 2-3 weeks of vaginal bleeding. This can be quite annoying if your dog is kept indoors. Male dogs are attracted from blocks away and, in fact, seem to come out of the woodwork. They seem to go over, around, and through many doors or fences. Your dog will have a heat period about every six months.

Spaying removes the uterus and the ovaries, and heat periods no longer occur. In many cases, despite of your best effort, an unspayed female will become pregnant. Spaying prevents unplanned litters of puppies.

As unspayed female dogs age, the incidence of breast cancer and uterine infections increases. Spaying before the first onset of heat practically eliminates the chance of either. If you do not plan to breed your female dog she should be spayed. This can be done anytime after she is five months old.

Why Should I Have My Male Dog Neutered?

Neutering offers several advantages. Male dogs are attracted to a female dog in heat and will climb over or go through fences to find her. Male dogs are more aggressive and more likely to fight, especially with other male dogs. As dogs age, the prostate gland frequently enlarges and causes difficulty urinating and defecating. Neutering will avoid or render less harmful all the aggression and ailments common in male dogs. Surgical neutering can be done at any time after the dog is five months old.

If I Choose to Breed My Female Dog, When Should That Be Done?

If you plan to breed your dog, she should have at least one or two heat periods first better yet wait until she is 24 mos old. This will allow her to physically mature allowing her to be a better mother without such a physical drain on her. Breeding after five years of age, unless she has been bred prior to that age, is not recommended. A first-time litter for a female more than five years old increases the risk of problems during the pregnancy and delivery. Once your dog has had her final litter, she should be spayed to prevent the reproductive problems of older dogs.

1. Proper ID & Tags . It is important that your pet wears tags at all times so your pet can be properly identified.  Maintaining up-to-date identification information on collar tags is important. Also, pet implanted microchips are great in case your collar falls off and becomes lost. Proper means of identification can help pet owners reunite with pets much quicker when natural disasters cause them to be separated.

2. Pack Pet Medications. Have an adequate supply of medication the pet might be on.

As a side note: If your dog requires medication, make sure that you put that information on the dog’s collar. You can write it in permanent marker on the inside of the collar to alert caregiver.

3. Buy a waterproof container. Use this container to keep pet records, current photo and description in a safe waterproof place. Again, this can be instrumental in helping to reunite with a lost pet.

4. Keep your pet healthy. Keep up to date with vaccinations and pet health visits to the veterinarian.

5. Put together a box of pet supplies. Store at least a 3-day supply of pet food, food and water bowls, cat litter and litter box, first aid kit, extra leashes and collars. Also, keep the waterproof container with important pet information next to or in this box. Keep this in an easy to get to place in your home.

6.  Have on hand a proper-sized pet carrier. It will be easier to transport a pet during a natural disaster by keeping them contained in a pet carrier.

7. Design an emergency plan. It is important to have a plan of action, what you plan to do with your pet(s) during a possible natural disaster. Take time to think through all the possible scenarios like whether or not you will be able to board the pet or does the place you are planning to go to accept pets. Ask the veterinarian for suggestions.

8. Always try to bring pets along when evacuating. It is always in the best interest of the pet to stay with the owner, because a pet left behind has a better chance of becoming lost, hurt or worse. Definitely do not chain or cage a pet and leave them behind during a natural disaster. This will limit their ability to use their own natural instincts to stay safe.

9. Plan to leave and evacuate early. Waiting till the last minute will almost always make it impossible to bring a pet along.

10. Have a backup plan. In the event that a natural disaster strikes and you are not able to get home, ask a reliable neighbor to assist in evacuating the pet. Make sure this person has a spare key, knows the pet and is familiar with where the emergency pet supplies are stored.

11.  Find a place of refuge that is pet-friendly Call up potential hotel & motels,  places you may use as an evacuation safe place and see if they welcome pets ahead of time. For places that do not allow pets, find out if there is a local animal shelter in the area that can board the pet.

12. Place a sticker on the front door. The sticker should identify the presence of the pet that resides at the home. This will alert rescue people that there is a pet in need of rescue in the event that the pet had to be left behind.

13. Bring the pet indoors. When the natural disaster is eminent, do not leave the pet outside this will only increase their chances of being harmed.

Preparing Your Canine Survival Kit

We should all prepare to be self-sufficient in an emergency. For dog owners, this means having on hand supplies needed to care for our dogs. A three-to-seven day supply is recommended.

1. For each dog you own, place in a self-sealing container:
   • Water (1 gallon per day per dog)
   • Food your dog is accustomed to
   • Prescriptions or other medications (minimum seven-day supply; two-week supply is safer
   • A dog crate
   • Food and water dishes
   • Leash and collar
2. A soft muzzle in case your dog should need restraint (even the most gentle dog may snap at strangers when under stress or in pain)
3. Another essential for the container is a first aid kit specifically for your dog. A basic kit should contain the following:
   • rectal thermometer
   • gauze, sponges and tape
   • forceps (tweezers)
   • Hydrogen Peroxide
   • tourniquet
   • ace bandage
   • medicated soap
   • flashlight
   • topical ointment
   • scissors
   • rubber gloves
   • towel
4. In addition to medical supplies, toss into your first aid kit a small book or pamphlet on canine first aid.

An easy-to-read guide dealing with the basics is all you need. Check area book stores or ask your veterinarian for a recommendation. Familiarize yourself with the book before storing it. It is particularly important to know how to recognize if your dog is in shock and how to stabilize it. Also, learn where your local emergency animal clinics are located and several routes for getting to them in case some roads are blocked.

No one can argue the fact that there is a worldwide pet overpopulation problem. In the USA there are 45 cats and dogs for every person born. Only 1 out of 10 dogs born ever get a home. Only 1 out of 12 cats born ever find a home. 800 dogs & cats are KILLED each HOUR. In Nashville, TN alone, there are 300 - 500 dogs and cats euthanized (killed) everyday within a 50 mile radius - there just are not enough homes out there for the amount of dogs and cats available for adoption. Can you imagine how many dogs and cats are killed world wide daily? A pound in Nashville is reported to kill 95 of every 100 dogs that goes in there - it's a vicious cycle.

In most cases even when a shelter calls themselves a "no-kill" shelter it simply means they give the dogs they don't want to a shelter that IS a kill shelter. So does that make it a true No Kill? No, not in my book because the animals are not safe just because they end up there.

So where does the problem really lie? One would think its 100% the fault of breeders and those whoops litters. But no, that is not the route of the problem, not by a long shot. Breeders are the effect of the problem, and the massive pet overpopulation is the aftermath.  Yes, breeders, as a whole, are breeding more litters than there are homes for, yet, they are selling them. So why is that, why are breeders selling their litters when there's a worldwide pet overpopulation problem? Because people do not look at the purchase of a puppy or kitten as a life long commitment. Puppies and kittens are so cute, most are purchased on impulse. Who could, after all, resist that cute little face.

How many of you reading this article know someone, including yourself, who has purchased a dog or cat, only later to "get rid" of it for reasons you didn't anticipate. Your cute little puppy grew up, it digs holes in your yard, it barks too much, it chews your furniture, you feel sorry for it because you just can't give it the time it deserves, you can't afford it's vet bills, your tired of dealing with its medical problems, it bites or growls at people because you didn't raise it to see humans as "Top Dog", it pee's and poops all over your house, there are pet hairs all over the house, it's ruining your furniture, it's got a ton of energy and gets destructive / neurotic because you don't have the time to spend with it, your tired of putting the time into it, tired of cleaning the litter box, tired of walking the dog... the list of excuses for not keeping your pet goes on and on.

So what does one do, they take the dog and try to find it a new home. However this is not all that easy, as most are looking for cute innocent little puppies and kittens.

Yes, the problem lies with the general public who, do not research, and buy these pets without thoroughly thinking it through. Without doing their homework on the type of pet they should get, and without taking the time to learn what a dog really needs in order to be that perfect dog. They later "Get Rid" of their pet, passing them onto rescues or pounds. Later, most will end up "Testing Out" a different type of pet. The vast majority of people who adopt a puppy or kitten, do not keep the animal for life. If this were to turn around and most people were to actually keep their pets through the good times and the bad, as they do their own children, the demand for these animals would go down. With less of a demand, breeders would not breed as many litters. Breeders are only breeding as many litters as they do, because people are buying them. The demand for a cute little puppy or kitten is great, because people do not keep the animal for life. Animals are recycled. If a breeder had a litter and could not sell the puppies, they would not keep having litter after litter. People are buying them, so breeders are breeding them. In a perfect world, breeders would breed less and force people to adopt from an animal rescue, but this is not a perfect world. The solution lies with the general public educating themselves, supply and demand, that's the solution. Lessen the demand and the supply will, on it's own, lessen. The power lies within each and every one of us.

Another contributing factor to this huge problem is government intervention. The state run dog pounds make it way took easy to unload the responsibility of owning a pet onto someone else. Most people could "Get Rid" of their dogs in one day. Almost anyone can take their pets to the pound.

It is very easy to "Get Rid" of a dog or cat at a local state run kill shelter (dog & cat pound), but it's not so easy to adopt a dog from one. Some years back my husband went to a state run dog pound near his work and tried to adopt a dog. He was told it was the dogs last day, yes it was going to be killed the next day. My husband told the shelter he wanted to adopt the dog. Upon doing his paperwork he was told he could not adopt the dog because he didn't live in that county. He explained he worked down the street, didn't live in the county but worked there. No, that was not acceptable, he was not allowed to adopt the dog. The pound was going to kill the dog, but would not adopt it out to a man who lived in the next county over. These state run pounds have all kinds of rules and restrictions in place for adopting a pet, but not for dumping one. Yes, they will take your pet, and they will also kill it for you. Know if you take your dog or cat to one of these pounds chances are extremely high it will be dead in a month. The majority of cats and dogs who are taken to these state run kill shelters are not adopted out, but are killed. One might as well save the tax payers some money and kill the animals themselves. Sound harsh? Yes, it is, so don't take your pets to the pound. You took on this responsibility, now you must deal with it without dumping your problems onto someone else.

Another example (true story); a family was having a rough couple of days with their dog. The dog was getting into the trash and chewing things up inside the house. (a sign of not enough exercise) The wife decided on a whim to take the dog to the pound while her husband was at work and the kids at school. Later that same night when her family returned home, she had a change of heart and decided she did not mean to take such drastic measures. The husband went to the pound to get their dog back. The pound would not return the dog. They had given it up and no longer owned it.

What needs to change... the attitude of the general public. When one decides to buy a cute little puppy or kitten, the decision should be looked at as a 10-15 year commitment. If one cannot, or does not, wish to commit this amount of time to a dog or cat, do not buy a puppy or kitten, and than pass your problem off to someone else when it grows up and the situation does not work out as you envisioned it would. Just like when one decides to have a human baby, things will not be perfect. The child will not be perfect. They will be expensive and press us to the end with issues to deal with. Dogs and cats are not disposable and they are not all the same. Chances are, a type of dog that will fit into your lifestyle will not be the type of dog that will fit into your neighbors lifestyle. Sometimes there IS NO type of dog that will fit into your lifestyle, and if you want a pet, its time to consider something else, something less demanding. This research should be done before you adopt a pet, it should not be a trial and error experience. With the Internet so readily available, there is no excuse for not researching BEFORE adopting a pet.

It should be made harder to dump unwanted animals off at these state pounds, putting more responsibility on the pet owner. Maybe than people would think twice about buying a puppy or kitten when they were not sure if they were ready for the responsibility of owning one for life. These state run shelters are hurting the pet over population problem more than they are helping. The world would be a better place if there were not an easy place to dump your pets after you got tired of them. Let private no kill rescues work with people who think they want to dump their dog. It needs to be harder for someone to dump an unwanted pet and never look back.

If you would like to try owning a dog or cat, but are not sure if you are a dog / cat person, start with a full grown homeless dog or cat rather than adopting a puppy or kitten. Grown cats and dogs are easier to care for than kittens and puppies and you will not be contributing to the overpopulation problem should you decide it was not something you should have taken on. There are millions of wonderful dogs and cats that need homes.

People who adopt a cute little puppy or kitten without researching, how a dog thinks, the type of pet they are getting, the care, the time and responsibility it will need, and end up "Getting Rid" of your pet after it has outgrown that cute puppy or kitten stage, using one of the many common excuses for not keeping a pet, it is you who are the problem for the worlds pet overpopulation.